MX-5 Miata Forum > NA/NB (1990-2005) Miata > NA (1990-1997) General Discussion > Spark plug wires-1993 Mazda Miata
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Mewzda
11th April 2016, 17:25
How can I protect my spark plug wires from getting burned? They end up right on top of my engine before connecting to the coil pack. I really want them to last but my last set got burned all to heck. XD.
emptyminded42
11th April 2016, 17:45
Do you have the 2 plastic spacers/holders in the middle of the valve cover? That should lift them off the metal and keep them lined up. I have the NGK blues and they fit fine... no reason they should ever be touching anything but the spacers, coil pack, and plugs.
Should look like this:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CDhXKYd8Prw/VkkMOtpstWI/AAAAAAAAQak/fDwEveZMVaU/s1600/El_Cheapacabra_plugs%2526wires.jpg
gtxhawaii
11th April 2016, 19:19
If your engine is hot enough to melt plug wires, you have bigger problems than the wires.
Cheap wires may be more 'burnable'.
My NGKs and the cars with OEM black wires fit as in emptyminded42's image, and none have burned. I'm sure some plug leads have touched the valve cover most of the engine's life.
Mewzda
12th April 2016, 07:30
I just got my miata from an older gentleman. Car runs at a cool temperature, I've already hunted down all her leaks. Just one thank goodness. Engine hasn't gotten hot enough to burn anything, but my wires seem like they are a little longer than need be. That's my problem. The ends lay right on top of the valve cover. The old wires, which were installed by the previous owner, were very much burnt.
jspadaro
12th April 2016, 10:04
Oh hey, I'm in knoxville as well. You should check out the Knox Area Roadsters facebook group.
Bill (gtxhawaii) is right. One of the plastic clips on my valve cover has been broken off for a couple of years now, so my plugs sit on the engine. No noticeable damage or issues. I use NGK blues though, so I can't speak for cheaper wires.
emptyminded42
12th April 2016, 10:21
He might have bought the 1.8L wires or something. The NGK blues work great and are readily available on Amazon.
Lobster70
12th April 2016, 10:45
I've seen sets (not NGK) that have a bit of plastic around the shortest wire, which seems like it is the most likely one to contact the valve cover. I assume it is intended as a heat shield.
Smudger#12
13th April 2016, 02:38
That plug wire layout photo made my day. Blue NGK's on the way..
My Bosch set snake all over the VC - my ride lived in a rural location, and,as Kiwis will,they just fitted,well,anything that fitted.
Also - Harbour Freight won't take a New Zealand credit card,so the $9.99 in/lb torque wrench I need remains unobtainium. As we say here (expression of frustration ) " Bugger!"
gtxhawaii
13th April 2016, 02:58
We know what that really means.
Decent cheap solution for tools: Figure out what you can find locally dirt cheap that we may even Know about. Kiwis have some amazing fruits and such? Offer trades (assuming it posts legally) in exchange for the serviceable tools HF sells. (The Inch-lb tool has a Soft click, practice with that setting before each use.) No telling what cottage industry you might end up running? Try here and on the Tools forum.'
Other US torque wrenches (Small) run $35 and Up. Try Amazon and Ebay, look in the bicycles sections as well, bike mechanics are more tuned to the needs of smaller fasteners.
flylow7f39
13th April 2016, 05:19
He might have bought the 1.8L wires or something. The NGK blues work great and are readily available on Amazon.
NGK (9160) ZE21 (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZE21-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8OLU) (AKA blues) fit all NAs, 1.6 and 1.8, and also early NBs.
flylow7f39
13th April 2016, 05:23
Also - Harbour Freight won't take a New Zealand credit card,so the $9.99 in/lb torque wrench I need remains unobtainium. As we say here (expression of frustration ) " Bugger!"
Have you called them and inquired about paying with a check or money order?
Might be worth a try??? :dunno: Of course shipping might be a real deal killer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/customer-service-faqs.html
"We accept MasterCard, VISA, Discover and American Express. If you would like to pay by personal check, money order, or wire transfer, please call our Customer Service Department at 1-800-444-3353, Monday thru Saturday, 5am to 9pm (PT) and Sunday, 6am to 6pm (PT)."
Edit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/customer-service-shipping-delivery.html
"Currently, Harbor Freight offers shipping to Canada (excluding Quebec) and Australia only."
Smudger#12
13th April 2016, 05:40
We know what that really means.
Decent cheap solution for tools: Figure out what you can find locally dirt cheap that we may even Know about. Kiwis have some amazing fruits and such? Offer trades (assuming it posts legally) in exchange for the serviceable tools HF sells. (The Inch-lb tool has a Soft click, practice with that setting before each use.) No telling what cottage industry you might end up running? Try here and on the Tools forum.'
Other US torque wrenches (Small) run $35 and Up. Try Amazon and Ebay, look in the bicycles sections as well, bike mechanics are more tuned to the needs of smaller fasteners.
GTX, I have followed your posts since day one. "Cheers,Bro" as we say here.
"Godzone" , as we call it, has a bunch of good/stuff. "Medical" grade Manuka Honey is just one (great for skin conditions,wounds,etc ).
I have also noted,ordering from the States,how much you /I pay for a simple USPS shipping to New Zealand - in the reverse direction, maybe half the amount?
Example - I ordered J.I.S driver bits (you NEED these if you respect the not "Phillips" cross/head screws on your Mazda ) from Revlimiter.
$30.00 plus US for a handfull of bits that weigh ounces?
I could ship these to you for NZ $10.00,top weight. Around $12.50 US$.
Suggestion : G**gle "Trademe,New Zealand". Have a look at Kiwilands version of Ebay.
Find something you like, I'll send at cost, and you send me a HF wrench on the same arrangement.
This does not cover stuff that won't fit in a parcel (ships,planes,farmland,etc)
Mewzda
13th April 2016, 08:55
The spark plug wires previously on Bee were grey and burnt. However, the new ones are black, not NGK sadly. I was pressed for money and wanted her running and happy. However, once I get paid I'm putting a nice set in her as well as a royal purple oil change and will be looking into having a paint job done.
emptyminded42
13th April 2016, 10:02
No worries about color, honestly. We just recommend the NGK blues because they fit well and have been used so often that they're a sure bet. Mine had black ones from what I'm assuming was either the factory or RockAuto and they were working just fine. I replaced them around 76k along with plugs, engine, trans, and diff oils just to be safe.
Lobster70
13th April 2016, 10:57
So this is where I come clean and admit that we put Import Direct brand wires on my son's 91? Due to poor planning on my part, we had to go with whatever O'Reilly had in stock. But they fit just as well as the pretty blue NGK in that photo above, and even had the heat shield on the shortest wire. And came with a tiny packet of lube. But the plugs we used were the recommended NGK 6953, because I had ordered them for my car a couple months back.
But wait, what "$9.99 in/lb torque wrench" at Harbor Freight??
emptyminded42
13th April 2016, 11:45
...But wait, what "$9.99 in/lb torque wrench" at Harbor Freight??
The ones the advertise every other month in their mailed ads. $9.99 with coupon for any of the 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" drive click-type torque wrenches. Buy a 1/4" for in-lb ratings and a 1/2" for ft-lb. They worked fine when I did my timing belt/water pump - never broke a bolt if I was using them. Broke a couple when I wasn't...
They definitely go on sale every other month or so, just keep an eye out. Otherwise they're like $22-30 apiece. Even not on sale, they wouldn't be an unreasonable buy for the backyard mechanic.
Unusualdesigner
13th April 2016, 22:07
The spark plug wires previously on Bee were grey and burnt. However, the new ones are black, not NGK sadly. I was pressed for money and wanted her running and happy. However, once I get paid I'm putting a nice set in her as well as a royal purple oil change and will be looking into having a paint job done.
Wanna save even more? Skip the Royal Purple oil. For these cars, with engine tolerances and mileage it's just "bling". Money better invested in other parts of the car.
Leave those wires in for the time being as well. New wires -regardless of pedigree- will work better than old wires.
Mewzda
13th April 2016, 22:09
Any idea how I can fix an oil leak? I traced to to around the transmission/oil pan. I'm not sure how difficult it will be and how much the gasket will cost me.
Unusualdesigner
13th April 2016, 22:39
90% of leaks that show up at the engine / transmission joint come from up above; in order of probability: CAS "O" ring and Valve Cover gasket.
Oil then dribbles down, seeps into the joint between the engine and transmission bell housing and dribble down the weep hole or between the engine and trans.
The oil pan is securely glued down and seldom if ever leaks, less than 0.1% probability.
The other 9.9% probability is from a rear main seal or transmission input shaft seal.
pacomutt
13th April 2016, 22:47
Wanna save even more? Skip the Royal Purple oil. For these cars, with engine tolerances and mileage it's just "bling". Money better invested in other parts of the car.
Any idea how I can fix an oil leak? I traced to to around the transmission/oil pan. I'm not sure how difficult it will be and how much the gasket will cost me.
Excellent advice on the oil. As far as the leak, put a finger behind and under the CAS, which is the round, electronic unit on the rear of the head, next to the coil. There's a good chance you'll find oil leaking there. There's an O-ring that seals the CAS that needs replacing.
emptyminded42
14th April 2016, 11:01
Agreed with the above. FYI, CAS = cam angle sensor.
Lobster70
14th April 2016, 11:29
The ones the advertise every other month in their mailed ads. $9.99 with coupon for any of the 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" drive click-type torque wrenches. Buy a 1/4" for in-lb ratings and a 1/2" for ft-lb. They worked fine when I did my timing belt/water pump - never broke a bolt if I was using them. Broke a couple when I wasn't...
They definitely go on sale every other month or so, just keep an eye out. Otherwise they're like $22-30 apiece. Even not on sale, they wouldn't be an unreasonable buy for the backyard mechanic.
I'll watch for that. I should have known--it's how I bought my DA polisher. Under $30 is better than what I could find on Amazon (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PGIUK3I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3FLGW20D33D6Z&coliid=I285132CJAHHMO) with a reasonable rating. I had also considered using a parts store tool loan program, like AutoZone, IF they carry an inch-pound torque wrench. That "loan-a-tool" program is really just a pre-approved return policy that allows use of the tool with full refund. They hope you like it and keep it.
EDIT - I'm seeing it on sale at HF now (http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html) for $22.
jspadaro
14th April 2016, 11:43
Any idea how I can fix an oil leak? I traced to to around the transmission/oil pan. I'm not sure how difficult it will be and how much the gasket will cost me.
Clean it up and see exactly where it's coming from. The front could be cam/crank, rear is likely to be CAS as stated. Valve cover is another candidate. Leaks higher up can drip down and look like something else, hence cleaning it first and then running it to see.
jessedrumroll
14th April 2016, 12:22
90% of leaks that show up at the engine / transmission joint come from up above; in order of probability: CAS "O" ring and Valve Cover gasket.
Oil then dribbles down, seeps into the joint between the engine and transmission bell housing and dribble down the weep hole or between the engine and trans.
The oil pan is securely glued down and seldom if ever leaks, less than 0.1% probability.
The other 9.9% probability is from a rear main seal or transmission input shaft seal.
Great advice. I'll be looking at this over the weekend. Looks like I need to do some research on this CAS O ring I keep hearing about.
emptyminded42
14th April 2016, 12:36
5-pack of Viton o-rings on Amazon for $2.29 w/ Prime (http://www.amazon.com/222-Viton-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FN0YG2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Fit perfectly, cheap, and will last longer than the butyl rubber originals because of higher oil and heat resistance of Viton.
Cheat sheet for CAS o-ring replacement (http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html).
Scribe a line from the valve cover and CAS to mark timing setting. Pull connector on CAS, loosen CAS bolt with a 12mm wrench, and fumble it around for 5 minutes before it manages to remove itself from between the head and firewall.
Cut off the old, flattened o-ring, lube the new one with oil and slip it on. Fumble around trying to install the CAS for 10 minutes, give up, grab a beer, repeat as many times as necessary. Then, it'll magically slip in without any real resistance and line up the scribed mark. You'll wonder why you struggled for 20 minutes, but whatever. Plug in the connector and you're good to go.
jessedrumroll
14th April 2016, 12:57
5-pack of Viton o-rings on Amazon for $2.29 w/ Prime (http://www.amazon.com/222-Viton-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FN0YG2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Fit perfectly, cheap, and will last longer than the butyl rubber originals because of higher oil and heat resistance of Viton.
Cheat sheet for CAS o-ring replacement (http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html).
Scribe a line from the valve cover and CAS to mark timing setting. Pull connector on CAS, loosen CAS bolt with a 12mm wrench, and fumble it around for 5 minutes before it manages to remove itself from between the head and firewall.
Cut off the old, flattened o-ring, lube the new one with oil and slip it on. Fumble around trying to install the CAS for 10 minutes, give up, grab a beer, repeat as many times as necessary. Then, it'll magically slip in without any real resistance and line up the scribed mark. You'll wonder why you struggled for 20 minutes, but whatever. Plug in the connector and you're good to go.
Bazinga! Many thanks for the info
Mewzda
14th April 2016, 18:03
5-pack of Viton o-rings on Amazon for $2.29 w/ Prime (http://www.amazon.com/222-Viton-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FN0YG2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Fit perfectly, cheap, and will last longer than the butyl rubber originals because of higher oil and heat resistance of Viton.
Cheat sheet for CAS o-ring replacement (http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html).
Scribe a line from the valve cover and CAS to mark timing setting. Pull connector on CAS, loosen CAS bolt with a 12mm wrench, and fumble it around for 5 minutes before it manages to remove itself from between the head and firewall.
Cut off the old, flattened o-ring, lube the new one with oil and slip it on. Fumble around trying to install the CAS for 10 minutes, give up, grab a beer, repeat as many times as necessary. Then, it'll magically slip in without any real resistance and line up the scribed mark. You'll wonder why you struggled for 20 minutes, but whatever. Plug in the connector and you're good to go.
This is the best way to explain how to do something
Schroedinger
14th April 2016, 19:29
5-pack of Viton o-rings on Amazon for $2.29 w/ Prime (http://www.amazon.com/222-Viton-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FN0YG2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Fit perfectly, cheap, and will last longer than the butyl rubber originals because of higher oil and heat resistance of Viton.
Cheat sheet for CAS o-ring replacement (http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html).
Scribe a line from the valve cover and CAS to mark timing setting. Pull connector on CAS, loosen CAS bolt with a 12mm wrench, and fumble it around for 5 minutes before it manages to remove itself from between the head and firewall.
Cut off the old, flattened o-ring, lube the new one with oil and slip it on. Fumble around trying to install the CAS for 10 minutes, give up, grab a beer, repeat as many times as necessary. Then, it'll magically slip in without any real resistance and line up the scribed mark. You'll wonder why you struggled for 20 minutes, but whatever. Plug in the connector and you're good to go.
If pull the valve cover and replace that gasket too, you eliminate another likely oil leak and make the CAS re-insertion much easier, leaving you time to drink two celebratory beers instead of one.
The Amazon viton o-rings work well, FYI.
emptyminded42
15th April 2016, 10:35
This is the best way to explain how to do something
I just wanted to make sure he knows that if he struggles doing this seemingly simple task, it's not just his fault :rofl:
If pull the valve cover and replace that gasket too, you eliminate another likely oil leak and make the CAS re-insertion much easier, leaving you time to drink two celebratory beers instead of one.
The Amazon viton o-rings work well, FYI.
Agreed. I think he's doing the TB/WP as well, so I assumed he was already taking care of that. And it's definitely time. My VCG was definitely weeping on the exhaust side and the new one so far has absolutely no leaks. Mazda brand that came with Rosenthal's TB kit, for the record.
I was really pleased at how cheap and well the Amazon Viton o-rings worked out. Hopefully they last, but haven't seen any leaks thus far. I still get some oil smell after high-rev runs and I'm wondering if it's the RMS. I only have 80k on the motor and the front seals were perfect when I did the TB. Not sure where else oil would be coming from. :dunno:
jessedrumroll
18th April 2016, 09:30
I just wanted to make sure he knows that if he struggles doing this seemingly simple task, it's not just his fault :rofl:
Agreed. I think he's doing the TB/WP as well, so I assumed he was already taking care of that. And it's definitely time. My VCG was definitely weeping on the exhaust side and the new one so far has absolutely no leaks. Mazda brand that came with Rosenthal's TB kit, for the record.
I was really pleased at how cheap and well the Amazon Viton o-rings worked out. Hopefully they last, but haven't seen any leaks thus far. I still get some oil smell after high-rev runs and I'm wondering if it's the RMS. I only have 80k on the motor and the front seals were perfect when I did the TB. Not sure where else oil would be coming from. :dunno:
Done and done. All went pretty well. I really appreciate the advice! :thumbs:
Did timing belt including VCG, seals, tensioner and idler, water pump, transmission flush, brake system flush, replaced coolant (was actually pretty clean), and the serpentine belt.
Lobster70
18th April 2016, 12:33
FYI - with my clever wife's help (coupon) I picked up the HF 1/4" torque wrench (in-lbs) for under $18 and got a free multi-meter as well. Used it to replace plugs, and it worked perfectly. Will come in handy on my son's engine very soon as well. Thanks for the tip! Once again m.net saved me some $$.
emptyminded42
18th April 2016, 13:16
FYI - with my clever wife's help (coupon) I picked up the HF 1/4" torque wrench (in-lbs) for under $18 and got a free multi-meter as well. Used it to replace plugs, and it worked perfectly. Will come in handy on my son's engine very soon as well. Thanks for the tip! Once again m.net saved me some $$.
Boo-yah! HF is pretty awesome. I actually have a brand new multimeter in the box and one in use :rofl:
The ft-lb is necessary for crank bolts and lug nuts. :wave:
flylow7f39
18th April 2016, 20:55
HF 1/4" torque wrench (in-lbs) for under $18 and got a free multi-meter
HF torque wrench coupons in the past have been $9.99, currently at $11.99.
From the Harbor Freight Coupon Database (http://www.hfqpdb.com/).
http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=241957&stc=1&d=1461027228
http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=241958&stc=1&d=1461027228
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