Changing the "devil hoses" on a 1.8 l [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > NA/NB (1990-2005) Miata > NA (1990-1997) General Discussion > Changing the "devil hoses" on a 1.8 l

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Dennis Nicholls

6th December 2011, 21:28

I'm frustrated because I have to change those 4 small coolant hoses on my 1996 PEP. I was glad to buy a 1.8 l car because (I thought) I wouldn't have to deal with that cap-off plug on the back of the 1.6 l engine. It turns out the 1.8 l cars USE that fitting to snake a small coolant hose (aka the "devil hose") from the back of the engine to the mickey-mouse oil cooler. A second "demon hose" goes from the oil cooler to the throttle body.

Threads here say you should use a die grinder or dremel tool to grind off the spring clamps and then cut the old hose off. That's all very good. But the two hose ends at the oil cooler are on top of it, and you have to remove the oil filter (and intake manifold brace) to gain access. How do you keep the metal grindings from getting into the engine oil? Right now I've used duct tape to cover up the exposed oil filter mount. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

CaboWabo

6th December 2011, 21:51

I got all the clips off with needle nose pliers or my regular pliers with a washer super glued to the end to give it more surface area so I could grab both little clips on the one side. Not going to say it's easy, but it's doable. As I'm sure you've seen, remove the intake manifold brace and oil filter. The back of head to oil cooler hose took me longer than all other 8 hoses combined. The oil cooler to throttle body and the other two small ones really weren't that bad.

FastWoman

7th December 2011, 10:41

Get two pairs of the super-long needle-nose pliers -- one with a straight tip, and one with a curved tip. For the ones you can reach, a pair of lineman dykes works great. I was able to complete the job with those tools. Some say to replace the spring clamps with another style, but I found the spring clamps were easy-off and easy-on, once I was able to get a grip on them with the right pair of pliers.

If the intake manifold brace is in the way, remove it (permanently). Others here have determined that it really serves no purpose and simply serves as an obstacle when servicing the oil filter. Also, you'll probably want to jack the passenger front corner and remove the wheel for better access to the oil cooler hose through the wheel well.

Have fun! :)

Billy

7th December 2011, 11:03

what the first two have said.

I would never cut off a clamp with a dremel, as I'd be concerned about nicking the fitting below.

I also recommend sticking with the spring clamps, as you can't overtighten them and damage the hose or fitting.

You might find that removal of the coil pack will make the hose on the back of the head much easier to deal with. While you have the coil pack out, cut a notch in the bottom of the bracket so you can easily slip it in and out in the future.

CaboWabo

7th December 2011, 13:58

...and WD40 as some one suggested in my thread about this. WD40 makes life so much easier with those clips.

FastWoman

7th December 2011, 18:58

Ah yes, forgot the WD40. It wicks between the rubber and the nipple and eases hose removal. If you can lift the end of the hose away from the nipple, shoot some in the pocket and work it around. The hose will break loose much more easily!

CaboWabo

7th December 2011, 19:38

I meant for the clips, but I guess that works too. I went the razor blade route and slit the hose open, makes it a piece of cake.

Dennis Nicholls

7th December 2011, 19:59

I understood you meant the clips too. I sprayed some on the clips when they were on the old hose, and they were much easier to move away from the nipple. I put the hoses on "dry" on the outside, and when they were "home" I then put some WD-40 on so the clips would more easily slide into place.

The devil hose is installed, and it wasn't that bad....after trying all the things that didn't work.

My beater Miata now is no longer leaking either oil or coolant. Actually I discovered that the PO had put on new radiator and heater hoses - they appear to be nearly new. It's just that he didn't know about the 4 tiny hoses. The devil hose had developed a small crack and was spraying coolant on the firewall when the car heated up. The oil leak was due to a loose oil filter. Both are now fixed. The worn-out pads in front have been replaced, and the brake fluid flushed.

My beater Miata is coming together quickly and inexpensively. :thumbs:

Best news: it's an OBD-II car, and the MIL light hasn't come on after several cold-to-hot driving cycles. I may pass my smog test next month without having to throw any expensive parts at it.

Billy

7th December 2011, 20:42

.......Best news: it's an OBD-II car, and the MIL light hasn't come on after several cold-to-hot driving cycles. I may pass my smog test next month without having to throw any expensive parts at it.

Get your hands on a modest quality code reader and verify there are not any 'pending' codes.

ekozy1

8th December 2012, 12:50

Bringing an old thread back to life here rather than starting a whole new thread....

Can you replace the devil hose with a similar one from AutoZone? The hose looks simple, only a single 90 degree bend. Or does it have to be the OEM hose that is used?

13BREMX5

8th December 2012, 13:42

As much of a pain as it is to replace, I'd go with an OEM hose. I got the hose kit from Rosenthal for right around $100 for all of them and will be doing mine soon.

tom4416

8th December 2012, 13:46

I once tried aftermarket hoses on a Miata, never again. Half of them were cut to fit, the other half were molded but mostly in the wrong places. As much of a pain as they are to change, I only want to do it once with OEM.

Billy

8th December 2012, 13:53

..........Can you replace the devil hose with a similar one from AutoZone? The hose looks simple, only a single 90 degree bend. Or does it have to be the OEM hose that is used?

Not me.

Bulk hose worked fine on old cars.

Most parts houses bits aren't really correct, either in a bend or length.

And OE rubber quality is superior IMHO. I mean for hoses to easily last 80-90k would have been unheard of in the past.

So, get the good ones.

ekozy1

8th December 2012, 14:45

Most parts houses bits aren't really correct, either in a bend or length.

This is the only concern I would have, but the thing I pointed out is that the hose in question only has a single 90 degree bend. Everything else is a straight line so the incorrect bend/length concern isnt valid here.

Local parts stores have hoses meant for the same use, and as long as I find one with a single bend, and long enough the trim and match the OE length, I'm not sure why I should be concerned at all about it.

If I had the money laying around, I would buy the entire hose kit from Rosenthal. Money is tight at the moment though.

flylow7f39

8th December 2012, 16:46

If hose material is equal or better than OE you will be fine as long as trim and bend matches up. 45 years of experience leads me to my personal opinion that OE hoses outlast most aftermarket by a wide margin. If I was stuck in the boonies and had no other alternative I would install aftermarket but would replace with OE at my convenience if I was going to keep the vehicle. YMMV

13BREMX5

8th December 2012, 17:07

Less than $10. Why risk it? http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/HOSE%2CWATER%252dOIL-COOLE-%28BPE8%252d15%252d536%29.html

ekozy1

8th December 2012, 18:16

Less than $10. Why risk it? http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/HOSE%2CWATER%252dOIL-COOLE-%28BPE8%252d15%252d536%29.html

Because that wouldn't allow me to get the work done this weekend.

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Changing the "devil hoses" on a 1.8 l [Archive] (2024)

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